Wikipedia on Boho-chic
After the Second World War Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ (launched in Paris in 1947), though drawing on styles that had begun to emerge in 1938–1939, set the pattern for women’s fashion generally until the 1960s. One social historian has observed that «the innocuous woolen jersey (now known in Britain as the jumper or the pullover), was the first item of clothing to become interchangeable between men and women and, as such, was seen as a dangerous symptom of gender confusion». Even so, others have drawn a stark contrast between the bohemian demeanor of the Greenham women and the «bold make-up and power-dressing» that tended to define women’s fashion more generally in the 1980s (the so-called ‘designer decade’). For many years trite assumptions were often made about the sexuality of women with cropped hairstyles; a historian of the 1980s wrote of the Greenham Common «peace camp» in England that it «brought public awareness to feminist separation and even to lesbianism — hitherto seen in the mass media – when acknowledged at all – either in terms of Eton-cropped androgyny or of pornographic fantasy». W. Pabst’s film, Pandora’s Box (1929), left an enduring image of the style, which has been replicated on screen over the years, most vividly by Cyd Charisse in Singin’ in the Rain (1952), Isabelle de Funès as Valentina in Baba Yaga (1973) and Melanie Griffith in Something Wild (1986).
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In America, similar styles were sometimes referred to as «bobo-«, «ashcan chic», or «luxe grunge», their leading proponents including actresses Mary-Kate Olsen and Zooey Deschanel. By the mid-1980s — the American singer Madonna had turned the bra into a positive, even provocative, fashion statement. The Exis were roughly equivalent to what in France became known as les beats and included photographer Astrid Kirchherr (for whom the «fifth Beatle» Stuart Sutcliffe left the group) and artist and musician Klaus Voormann (who designed the cover for the Beatles’ album Revolver in 1966).
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